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Catherine Bodry

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Catherine is a travel writer, trail runner, and fan of second class buses in foreign countries. She's co-authored Lonely Planet's Alaska, Pacific Northwest Trips, and the forthcoming Thailand and Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. She lives in tiny Seward, Alaska, and would love to hear from you. Email her at Catherine.Bodry@weblogsinc.com

Five reasons why I love Korea's Incheon International Airport

This long layover is my third at Incheon International Airport, and I couldn't be happier about it. On my first trip, I emerged bleary-eyed after a 10-hour flight, desperate for a bathroom and bottle of water. Wandering through the sleek white halls, I spotted a sign with an arrow and the words "Rest and Relaxation." I followed the arrow upstairs to an area with a spa, internet cafe, transit hotel, and several dining options. I was a smitten kitten.

If you're passing through South Korea on your way to other parts of Asia, consider choosing a flight that passes through Incheon. It truly is a great airport, and here are five reasons why:

1. Rest and Relaxation areas. What more could you want on a layover? Leather cots and lounge chairs make sacking out pleasurable (I'm usually that hobo passed out on a sarong by my gate), and they're in a quiet area with no TV noise.

2. Free Internet. And not just free wi-fi, though there's that (I'm using it right now). There's actually an Internet cafe area, with about a half dozen desktops for folks to use - for free. A sign politely asks users to limit their usage to 30 minutes if there is a wait.

3. Self-cleaning toilets. Not only are the toilet seats in a constant state of pristine thanks to some rotating plastic covers, but there are shelves inside the stalls to put your purse and whatnot. I can't count the times I've entered a stall with no hook and had to either wear all my stuff while trying to hover over a dirty seat, or else place it on the equally nasty floor.

Top five winter-trip items you might not think to travel with

Yesterday I posted on packing light for a cold trip - definitely something new for me since I live in Alaska and prefer escaping to warm climates. As I stuff my small backpack with fleecy bulk, a few items have come to light as being practical yet not necessarily things you would think of for when packing for cold. Here are the top five I've discovered:

1. A headlamp. Since, generally speaking, colder weather usually means winter, and winter usually means less daylight, a headlamp will come in handy more hours of the day than a summer trip. I keep mine in my purse whenever I travel.

2. A bandanna. A cotton kerchief isn't going to save your life in a blizzard, but it packs down small and will keep your ears warm. As someone who requires clip-on earmuffs year-round, I rely on the bandanna both for ear warmth and bed hair. Additionally, it can come in handy as toilet paper, tissue, and as a bandage.

3. A scarf. Sure, it makes sense in the city, but if you're a gear-head like me you might not think to use up pack space with a scarf. Think again. What's great about a simple black scarf is it can work multiple-duty as a wrap, headpiece, neck-warmer, pillow and outfit dresser-upper. Wrap it under your jacket or accessorize your dressy clothes with it -- or both.

4. A down sleeping bag. I want to emphasize down here: it is lighter and packs down much smaller than synthetics do, and is much warmer than that cotton or silk bag you use in hostels. If you're sleeping in huts (rather than a tent), you can probably get away with a tiny down bag, and it will also keep you toasty in chilly hostels. I have a 15-year-old North Face that is rated to 25 degrees Fahrenheit and takes up less room than my fleece hoodie.

5. Tights. Ladies, the 80s are back in style. You can now use footless tights as long underwear, running pants, pajamas, or simply under a skirt to stave off a chill. Gentlemen, you can use them for all of the above as well, if you so please. Pick out a synthetic pair to keep you warm(er) in wet weather.

A Critical Mass Halloween in San Francisco

Though the Bay Bridge closure clearly reduced traffic in downtown San Francisco last Friday, bicycle activists congregated nevertheless. This Critical Mass ride, a group of protesters who gather on the last Friday of every month to "celebrate cycling and to assert cyclists' right to the road," was dressed up in their Halloween finest.

I stood in front of the ferry terminal for about an hour watching costumed cyclists rolling in from every direction. Hundreds of folks and their bikes -- many of which were also dressed up -- gathered at the Justin Herman Plaza at the Embarcadero. A few rode around shouting things like "bikes don't use gas!" but the mood was peaceful yet celebratory.

I took some photos to share -- there were way too many great costumes to capture but the following gallery is a small sampling of what was on display. Warning: there are a pair of booty cheeks in photo number 12.

  • Butterfly biker
  • Major crowds
  • Elvis
  • Batman and bike
  • Biker and friend
  • S'mores!

Packing light for a cold trip

I'm a proud packer, but until now my longer trips have either been in warm places, or to countries where I planned to be very stationary (and didn't care if I looked like a 20-something grungy backpacker, because that's what I was). Flimsy skirts and tank tops were the norm. My task this time around, however, is to maintain my packing pride while making sure I stay warm and manage to look somewhat professional.

I'm heading out for a three-month trip to China, where I probably won't wear my swimsuit or flip-flops one time. I'm going to use Kunming as my base, and that city is at 6000 feet elevation. I hope to do a some trekking while I'm there, so a bit of gear will be necessary.

First, I need to choose my luggage. Instead of my fabulous Eagle Creek Switchback, I'll cram my Marmot Diva 36L with all my stuff. It's not as convenient for travel, but it's a great pack for trekking. Next, I decided to bring my light down sleeping bag (rather than my thick synthetic bag, or nothing at all). It should be sufficient for sleeping in huts and will also be my bedding when I get an apartment.

Finally, the hard part: shoes and clothes. My running shoes will double as trekking shoes and, well, running shoes, while a pair of red Keen Mary Janes will fill in all the other shoe duties. Hopefully I won't have to get fancy. As for clothes, I'm bringing stuff I would normally never dream of packing: jeans, cords, long underwear. No light cotton pants and only one strappy tank top (a girl needs to go out every now and then). One fleece pullover, several long sleeve shirts and a few t-shirts. My packing pile is growing, but overflow will get discarded and my Eagle Creek packing cubes will tidy the rest.

Travel-themed Halloween costume #4: Famous explorers

Got the travel bug and want to express it this Halloween? Following are several travel stereotypes you can use for costumes.

Here are some last-minute ideas you can throw together and still reflect your love for travel.

Jacques Cousteau: Got a wetsuit and a red cap? You're set. A pair of flippers might impede your trick-or-treating, but would probably be pretty fun to kick around on the dance floor at a Halloween party.

Amelia Earhart: Ladies, don your favorite high-waist, roomy-hipped pants, an aviator jacket and sexy scarf. A swim cap and goggles are also a cheapskate option for mimicking her head wear.

Neil Armstrong: Moon boots and a motorcycle helmet are a super cheap, last-minute way to convince people that you're an astronaut, but you can build up from there. Plus, you'll be totally safe.

Travel-themed Halloween costume idea #3: American exchange student backpacking through Europe

Got the travel bug and want to express it this Halloween? Following is the third of several travel stereotypes you can use for costumes.

American exchange student
: You know the type. Young, drunk American students who are suddenly legally allowed to drink set loose across Europe without chaperones. You'll find them in hostels across the Old World, lugging giant backpacks and sporting Eurail passes. For this costume, you will definitely want a college sweatshirt or t-shirt. Gentlemen, pair it with khaki pants and a baseball cap. Ladies, yoga pants or skinny jeans will do the trick, and finish the look off with a pair of running shoes.

Carry a giant backpack (sew a Canadian flag on there if you don't want folks to immediately assume you're an American), and make sure to get really drunk.

This costume also works well in a group: random drunken make-out sessions will add authenticity to the hostel-party vibe.

Travel-themed Halloween costume idea #2: Sex tourist and prostitute

Got the travel bug and want to express it this Halloween? Following is the second of several travel stereotypes you can use for costumes.

Sex tourist and prostitute: It ain't politically correct, but if you've spent any time in Thailand you know it's something you just can't avoid seeing. This costume really works best for couples; guys should go as a stereotypical tourist (read my tips for a "cruiser" costume). A sunburned face also adds authenticity. For maximum creepiness, dye your hair white, slather on some fake tanning lotion, and throw a gold chain around your neck. The older the male, the younger the prostitute should look.

Ladies, general "hooker" attire is all that's needed, plus a long black wig. Make sure to cling to you man. Two prostitutes, one on either side, and a dazed goofy grin on the guy is another take on this politically-incorrect costume.

Travel-themed Halloween costume idea #1: Cruiser(s)

Got the travel bug and want to express it this Halloween? Following is the first of several travel stereotypes you can use for costumes.


Cruiser: Let's start from the top down. Hair dye works well for the ladies; try for a blue-gray. If there are two of you, matching sweatsuits are an option, or consider dressing up as though it's formal night. Make sure to toss a pass card (such as the Princess Captain's Circle Membership card) so that folks don't mistake you for prom dates, and also so they recognize your elite status.

If you take the casual route, throw a fanny pack around your waist and a camera around your neck. Socks and sandals are also a nice touch.

Carry a strawberry daiquiri and make sure you complain loudly about how stuffed you are from all the food you've been eating at the buffet.

The Alaskan roadhouse experience

Last month, Up Here Magazine ran a feature on the end of the roadhouse. Even if you've never stopped at a roadhouse while driving long distances, you're likely familiar with the sight of them: generally a larger main building with a few gas pumps and a small restaurant, and several cabins fanning out on either side. These days, many of them are sagging in the weeds and boarded up.

Up Here cites highway improvements and a drop in tourists for the shuttering of so many roadhouses along the Alaska Highway (or "Alcan").

Though I usually camp off the side of the road when I dive the Alcan (I've made the 2500 mile drive from Seattle to Anchorage five times), I'm familiar with many of the grilled cheese sandwiches available along the way. I even had a toothless, bearded old sourdough recently offer to buy me and my friends shots at a roadhouse along the Richardson Highway. Authentic roadhouse experiences are clearly still available.

Though there are more derelict than functioning roadhouses these days, there is still a few you can visit in Alaska:

The international top five crappy pizzas

Bad pizza? Isn't that an oxymoron? Nope - despite the simplicity of melted cheese on dough, there is indeed such a thing as horrible pizza. I know; I ate some in Kaili, China - a town that has maybe 3 Westerners living in it, in a country that generally doesn't do bread or cheese. I should have known better. All the ingredients were super-processed and frozen, and it tasted as though I was eating a fake, plastic pizza.

The hilarious list comes from Tom Gates over at MatadorNights, and includes such vivid descriptions as "[the cheese] sweats as if masturbating," definitely not something I want my pizza to do.

The top five worst pizzas in the world (excluding my pizza in Kaili, which definitely deserves a mention) are served at:
  1. Pronto Pizza in La Serena, Chile
  2. Te Pizza el Gallso in Buenos Aires, Argentina
  3. San Marcos SRL in Florence, Italy
  4. Suba Galaxy Hotel in Mumbai, India
  5. Italian Pizza on Koh Chang, Thailand
I've eaten plenty of delicious local food in India and Thailand and know better than to order pizza there, but the lure of my favorite comfort food has certainly convinced me to override common sense and order a pizza (or hamburger, or fries, or spaghetti) at restaurants aimed towards foreigners. My advice comes from experience: ignore the evil voices trying to convince you how good the melted cheese with herbs will be, and go for the curry. It's cheaper, and oftentimes the curry you get back home - especially if you live in BF Alaska - will be along the same lines as the pizza you'll get in Asia.

[Via iamkohchang.com]

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